Over the past couple of weeks, my Instagram has been flooded with reels and photos of the puffins who have recently migrated back over the Ireland for the summer months. I had been dying to go and see these charismatic and sharply dressed birds for months! Not to mention the beautiful Saltee islands with their sea cliffs and vast array of wildflowers. Every spring, thousands of puffins migrate to breed on islands around Ireland. One of the best places to see them? The Saltee Islands off Wexford. These two small islands are puffin paradises from April to July. Getting there takes a bit of planning, but it’s worth it. Keep reading to learn when puffins arrive, how to reach the Saltees, and what to expect from a day of puffin spotting.
An Introduction to Puffins and the Saltee Islands
Puffins are adorable seabirds often called “sea parrots” due to their brightly colored beaks. There are four species of puffins, with the Atlantic puffin being the most well known and the ones we’ll be looking out for! These charismatic birds spend most of their lives at sea, only coming ashore during the breeding season to nest in large colonies.
Puffins have black and white plumage, a stocky build, and distinctive rainbow-colored beaks. Their scientific name, Fratercula, means “little friar” due to their black and white coloring. Although they’re not the best at soaring through the sky, Puffins use their short wings to “fly” underwater and their large beaks are perfect for catching plenty of small fish. Their beaks become more vibrant during mating season, as a way to attract potential mates.
In the winter, puffins head out to sea and travel long distances, some migrating as far south as Newfoundland or northern France. But in spring, puffins return to coastal areas and islands to breed in large colonies called puffinries. The Saltee Islands off Ireland’s southeast coast are home to thousands of puffins from April through early August.
The best time to spot puffins in their natural habitat is during breeding season from May to early July. On the Saltee Islands you will be able to see Atlantic puffins waddling around, nesting in burrows, and swooping over the sea. As it is during the peak of the breeding season, you might also spot puffins gathering nesting material, incubating eggs, and feeding their chicks. You may even see the fluffy grey pufflings emerge from their burrows and take their first tentative steps and flights.A trip to this puffin paradise is a must for any bird lover or nature enthusiast. The hardest part will be leaving these enchanting islands and their charismatic inhabitants behind. The Saltee Islands are home to the largest puffin colony in Ireland. Between April and August, thousands of puffins flock to the islands to breed, nest, and raise their pufflings. The islands are located just a 30-minute boat ride off the southeast coast of Ireland, making them an ideal spot for puffin watching and photography.
As well as being able to enjoy the Saltee Islands for their incredible wild life, the island itself has an interesting history behind it. Seething with myths and legends that date back as far as, if not further than St. Patrick, this tiny island holds more stories than we could ever fathom. A local farmer and businessman bought the islands in 1943 to live out his childhood dream of becoming prince of the islands. As prince, he used his power for good and transformed the islands into a bird sanctuary. Neale embarked on an intensive reforestation campaign, planting over 34,000 trees and shrubs on the main island between 1945 and 1950.
After his plantings were complete, he was content to leave them mainly in the hands of the birds – dozens of species of which reside there, reproduce there, or congregate there on their annual migratory journeys to and from Europe. In time, the Saltees came to be known as one of the world’s major bird sanctuaries, and they are today a mecca for ornithologists. Some 220 bird species have been recorded on the islands since the 1960s.
Neale placed three stone structures on the main island: a welcome monument for those who wished to visit his kingdom, a large throne dedicated to his mother, and an obelisk dedicated to himself as Prince of the Saltees. All three of which you can still see today. In 1956, Neal was ceremonially crowned while seated on the Saltees throne.
Its inscription reads:
“This chair is erected in memory of my Mother to whom I made a vow when I was 10 years old that one day I would own the Saltee Islands and become the First Prince of the Saltees.
Henceforth my heirs and successors can only proclaim themselves Prince of these Islands by sitting in this chair fully garbed in the Robes and Crown of the Islands and take the Oath of Succession.”
-Michael the First
Getting There and the Best Time to Visit
The islands are only accessible by boat, with ferry services running from April to October. The prime time to see puffins is from April to July, during their breeding season. The easiest way to reach the Saltees is to take a ferry from Kilmore Quay, a small fishing village about 30 minutes from Wexford town. The ferry ride takes between 20 and 30 minutes, depending on weather conditions. The Saltee ferry operates every day and slots can be booked online (weekends fill up very fast!). A boat leaves every hour between 9am to 1pm and can accommodate about 12 people per trip.
Tickets can be purchased in advance on the Saltee Ferry website. You will get a booking confirmation sent to your email with a voucher for check in. You will need this when you board the boat. It is recommended that you arrive to the quay about ten minutes before departure.
What to Expect and Bring on Your Trip
What to Expect
Visitors are allowed on the Great Saltee Island for day trips only. My boyfriend and I went around the end of May on a cloudy and overcast day so keep that in mind as I’ll be retelling this from my own experience. The drive from Kilkenny to Kilmore Quay took a little longer than expected so we were running late (as usual). We rocked up about five minutes before the boat departed. There’s thankfully a free car park just next to the quays and a big yellow gate with ‘Saltee ferry’ written on it as you approach the boats.
There was about 8 other people on the boat with us and two young lads were captaining and working the boat. The whole experience had a very local and genuine feel to it which I loved. As it was a bit overcast and windy the waves got a bit rough and our jeans and boots got absolutely soaked! The splashback is basically unavoidable so there’s not much you can do but sit back and laugh.
On arrival at the island, you will be fitted with a life jacket and transferred to a small dingy. The group will be divided and taken to shore in two trips as the second boat is quite small. Due to the lack of a pier or dock on the island, you’re gonna have to wade into the water. Seaweed or loose slippery stones along the shore may be present which you just need to be careful of. Conditions vary daily reliant on weather and tide fluctuations.
The island is then yours to explore for three and half hours. There are no amenities on the islands (no toilets, no shops, no pints), so come prepared. Once on the island, there’s plenty of time to meander the walking trails encircling the isle. The trails pass by the puffin burrows, granting many opportunities to glimpse the orange-beaked birds. Photography is allowed, but remember to not get too close to the puffin burrows, as it may disturb the birds. Puffin watching requires patience, but if you find a spot to sit quietly, the puffins may venture quite close to you, allowing for some amazing photo opportunities. Your boat crew will give you a time to be back at the landing area for the return trip to Kilmore Quay. Make sure you arrive back to the shore in plenty of time for your boat as no one knows what happens to people left on the island overnight….
Essentials to Pack
I’m not going to lie, we couldn’t have been any less prepared if we tried. I booked the tickets as a surprise for my boyfriend so obviously he had no idea what was going on. Meaning, I will have to take full responsibility for this lack of organisation, and for his soaking wet shoes. Having now experienced the trip I do have a couple of suggestions. You’ll want to bring supplies for a day trip. Pack some snacks, water, a rain jacket, a warm hat, a spare pair of socks, and a towel. Some people on our boat wore wellies as we knew there would be a wet landing, but in my opinion its easier to just take off your socks, roll up your trousers, and wade through it. You can dry off once you reach land. There are no shops on the islands, so bring what you need. Be sure to pack light, as you will have to carry everything with you.
Remember, there are no facilities available on the island – no toilets, shops or refreshments available. Toilet facilities are available at Kilmore Quay Marina and there are a couple of shops and cafes nearby.
Getting Around the Islands
The island is definitely small enough to explore on foot. Once you begin to follow the first trail, the paths will open up more and you’ll be able to see the entire island after only walking for a few minutes. There are a few marked trails that lead around the coastline and into the interior. As you walk, look for puffins nesting in burrows on cliffs, as well as other seabirds like gannets, guillemots, kittiwakes, and razorbills. You may also spot grey seals lounging on rocks or splashing in the waves below. Although it can be a little bit muddy, I promise you that when you’re sat in the grass about a meter away from these beautiful birds you won’t feel the wet dirt whatsoever.
Photography Tips
Puffins are fast little birds, so set your camera to a fast shutter speed to capture clear shots. A zoom lens will help you get close-ups without disturbing the birds. Be patient while waiting for puffins to emerge from burrows or surface from diving. Early morning and evening often provide the best lighting for photographs.
A trip to the Saltee Islands to see puffins in their natural habitat is a unique experience that any wildlife or birding enthusiast would find worthwhile. With some preparation and the right mindset, you’ll surely enjoy visiting these scenic, seabird-filled islands.
Spending an Afternoon With the Puffins
Once you’ve made it out to the Saltee Islands, the real excitement begins—spotting the puffins! The best time to see the puffins is between April and July when they return from their winter at sea to breed. With over 4,000 pairs nesting on the Great Saltee, your chances of spotting one are pretty much guaranteed.
As you disembark the ferry, follow the trail up towards the throne of Prince Neale for panoramic views of the island and surrounding waters. This vantage point gives you a bird’s-eye view of the puffins circling overhead and diving into their burrows. Don’t be surprised if a few puffins come quite close, as they show little fear of humans. Look out over the rocks and you should even spot a number of grey seals. The Saltee Islands are among the top five Grey Seal breeding sites in Ireland.
After enjoying the views, head to the western cliffs where hundreds of puffins nest in crevices and burrows along the rocky slopes. I could have sat here for hours, well, I did! I had no idea the puffins were going to be so beautiful and tiny. The way they interact with one another was mesmerizing to watch. Sometimes we’d even spot one returning from the sea with a beak full of small silver fish to feed its young. The sounds of their laughter-like calls echo off the cliffs. Sit still for long enough and their curiosity will get the better of them. I had a couple of them sneak up behind me!
As the afternoon winds down, find a grassy patch to sit and enjoy a picnic lunch while puffins glide by. Don’t miss the last ferry back, or you’ll be stuck on Puffin Paradise overnight! I was so sad to have to say goodbye to these little creatures but thankfully the boat ride back was incredible as we were able to see some puffins swooping over the waves.
Returning From Puffin Paradise
Once you’ve had your fill of puffin watching and exploring the Saltee Islands, it will be time to head back to the mainland. The ferry will come to pick you up at the time you were told by the crew, so make sure you’ve made your way back to the landing site with enough time to board.
When we eventually got back to Kilmore Quay we were absolutely soaked, cold, and tired. Still had giant smiles plastered to our faces though! We searched for a local pub or restaurant to get some hot food but as it was mid-week and before summer season, I guess we just got unlucky as no where was open. We eventually found a little cafe, Cocoa’s Coffee Shop and Kitchen where we were able to get a takeaway coffee before they closed in the early afternoon. I would definitely recommend bringing some sandwiches or something for this day trip as food was a lot harder to come by than we anticipated. There are a couple of cute gift shops in the area if you fancy picking up some locally made gifts.
Conclusion
You won’t regret taking a day trip to see the puffins on the Saltee Islands. Getting up close with these funny little birds in their natural habitat is an experience you’ll always remember. The boat ride out to the islands is part of the adventure. Pack your camera, binoculars, and rain jacket so you’re prepared for any weather. Wandering the island trails, you’ll get incredible views and photo ops of puffins and other seabirds. You’ll return to the mainland tired but totally satisfied, having seen a wildlife spectacle not easily found elsewhere. The puffins of the Saltee Islands are worth going out of your way to visit at least once in your lifetime.
