So you thought a 15-hour overnight train ride through Vietnam would be a grand old adventure, didn’t you? First off, take these romantic notions of gazing out the window at lush green landscapes and quaint villages and throw them out the window. While there are some incredible views along the way, you must keep in mind that the majority of your journey will take place under the cover of complete darkness. So while you may not get to take in a lot of the surrounding scenery, you will have 15 hours with no place better to be and perhaps you can use this time to catch up on all the things backpackers never have time for. Don’t worry, the kid behind you screaming at full volume for the next six hours straight will prevent you from drifting off to sleep.
You could be here for a couple of reasons:
a) You left it to the last minute and now the second-class sleeper is full but there are some second-class seats left.
b) You’re a little bit mad and want to suss out if it’s worth saving the extra 12 dollars.
I’m not going to tell you which of these led me to take the second-class seat-only option, but I will tell you how it went down.
If you were lucky enough to find cheap flights from Da Nang to Hanoi, then perhaps a 15-hour train ride isn’t absolutely necessary. If you are booking this trip as a way to take in the scenery of Vietnam, perhaps there are better ways to do this.
Okay, now we have narrowed it down to the unbreakable budget backpackers looking for the cheapest way to travel across half of the country.
Head to 12go.asia, choose your travel dates, and select your preferred choice. There are a number of options here, especially if you book far enough in advance. there is everything from second-class aircon seats to VIP cabins with real beds (that’s right), even third class seats if you’re feeling extra adventurous.
I paid about 500,000 VND (about $20), it is definitely possible to find a better price if you book earlier than the day before! Vietnam Railways now only issue electronic tickets so there is no need to print anything, just make sure your phone has enough battery to show them your ticket at the railway station and they will let you through. Check the departure board for your train to Ninh Bình and note your carriage and seat number. I found it quite difficult to understand what the voice over the speaker was saying at the station and I had spoken to two other backpackers waiting there who I knew were heading to Hue. So when the entire train station got out of their seats as the lady over the speaker mumbled something about a train, I decided I may as well join the herd. While everyone else boarded the first few sleeper carriages, I was sent all the way up to carriage number 1. I eventually found it, threw my bag up into a space above the seats and began the next mission, finding my seat.
Your train buddies – locals, backpackers, maybe that guy who was petting a chicken at the station – will rotate throughout the journey as they get on and off between stops. Hopefully they aren’t too smelly or loud, you know what they say, if you’re lucky enough to not have anyone like that in your carriage, that person is probably you. As night falls, recline the seat back, find a questionable blanket in a cupboard at the back of the train (it can get pretty cold) and try to get some shut eye. If the seat next to you is vacant, you could curl up in a ball, lulled to sleep by the clickety-clack of wheels on tracks. You’ll wake with the sunrise, bleary-eyed but mediocrely-rested.
Essential Tips for Surviving the 15-Hour Train Ride When You Aren't in a Sleeper Cabin
Surviving 15 hours on a train through rural Vietnam without a sleeper cabin is no small feat. But with some essential tips, you can make it out alive.
- What’s Your Seat Number?
Each ticket has an assigned seat, so scout it out quickly. Don’t be surprised if you find someone already sitting there – just flash your winning smile, point to your ticket, and try to determine if they’re in the wrong seat or you are. It’s a fun game of musical chairs at every stop!
- Pack for comfort.
While you might not have a pillow and duvet packed into your backpack, I do recommend bringing an eye mask and earplugs—you’ll be attempting to sleep upright in a seat, after all. A jacket or hoodie and some warm socks will transform this adventure from soul crushing to almost comfortable. Pack your toothbrush, wet wipes, tissues, hand sanitizer, and any medications you may need somewhere where you can access them easily. You’ll thank me later.
- Embrace the experience.
You chose the cheap train ticket over a quick flight for a reason. Gawk at the lush scenery rolling by, soak in the local life unfolding around you. When darkness falls, count the stars glimmering outside. And the best part about long journeys? You can forget deadlines and responsibilities, you’re not going anywhere for a while.
- Be flexible.
Delays and detours are common, so arrive with patience and a sense of humour intact. Know in your head prior to boarding that 15 hours can mean anything from 13 hours to 17 hours, and be okay with that fact.
The Scenic Views Along the Train Route from Da Nang to Ninh Bình
The 15-hour journey from Da Nang to Ninh Bình offers views so stunning you’ll forget you’re stuck in a tiny metal box with complete strangers for most of a day. As night falls a few hours in, you’ll miss most of the scenery. Yeah, I know right? Don’t worry too much though, your reward comes at sunrise. Rub the sleep from your eyes, stumble to the window and witness Vietnam’s natural beauty unfold before you. Lush emerald mountains, meandering rivers filled with lotus flowers, an ox-drawn cart rambling down a dirt road. As far as the eye can see, there’s a sea of rice paddies. During the rainy season, the paddies fill with water, a patchwork of mirrors reflecting the sky. In the dry months, golden rice stalks sway, farmers tending their crop as they have for centuries. If you’re lucky, you’ll spot farmers guiding buffalo through the fields or herding ducks along canals. The views from the train in the morning are worth every second you’ll endure up until this point.
Arriving in Ninh Bình After My Epic Train Adventure
After 15 hours of noisy chatter, bumpy rails, and questionable dining car cuisine (my advice? Don’t order a coffee on the train, no matter how much you want one), I finally arrived in Ninh Bình. As I stepped off the train I remember thinking, air has never smelled or tasted so good. After turning down not one, not two, but at least seven different tuk-tuk drivers, I crossed the road over to a small café. With a flock of backpackers following me (simply out of exhaustion and lack of ideas on what else to do), I found a seat at the café and immediately ordered a coconut coffee and a Bánh mì. I relaxed and chatted to a couple of people from the train before asking the cafe owner where I could rent a bike from. Obviously he shouted over to his next door neighbour and before I could contemplate anything else I was given a bike to rent. From here I drove into Tam Cốc where I met my friend. Tam Cốc is the most popular area to stay while visiting Ninh Bình.
Conclusion
So there you have it, a 15-hour Vietnamese train adventure condensed into a few paragraphs. By the end of this trip your bum will know new levels of numb, your back will be stiff from lying in whatever position you find most comfortable after hour 13, and you’ll be dreaming and drooling over a real coffee. But my God it is so worth it. You’ll get a glimpse into a vibrant slice of local life, watch the stunning scenery unfold outside your grimy window, and find comfort in the beautiful sunrises which symbolises your immanent arrival. All in all, this trip is worth doing if you have time to spare, want to save some money, and have a back made of rubber. Go on then, get lost!